St. Nicolas
It’s one of your rest periods, meaning that rather than walking for 30km today, you’re just walking for 10-15. You encounter the monastery that you’ve heard of; the one that is in fact a hospital, prioritising boarding for those who are ill, but where you may stay regardless.
It was started by a small confraternity, purely for the sake of taking care of travellers like yourself, who somehow liked the idea of making your whole way on foot, quickly running out of money, living off trees, bushes and handouts from villagers.
A man stands on the door, takes you in, stamps your credentials with an intricate, Latin-looking print, and postpones his duties to speak with you about his art for a while. He explains that as an illustrator, he spent a lot of his practice working with a digital pad, and for most of that time he would find himself digitally rubbing out an image, only to start sweeping and blowing away the non-existent dirt and dust. And when he returned to working with pencil, he would find himself typing the non-existent keys to work with the image. This man has an attachment to all tools.
As evening approaches you remember being told also, that the place has no electricity, and so church candles are lit, eliminating a wealth of external space and highlighting the more humbling spaces. You must buy some church candles of your own when this is all over. You hear cars pulling up outside. The rest of the confraternity enter, one of which you recognise from the previous albergue that you stayed in.
The man who welcomed you in announces to you and the other pilgrims, “before we eat dinner, we would like you to come to the chapel and take part in an important ritual. Anyone who wishes not to take part can remain at this table, but we ask that you be silent.” You and every other pilgrim in the monastery, some of whom you have walked with, collect chairs and take them to the chapel, sitting in a a semi-rectangle. You suddenly feel very serious and solemn. You can only see faces with equal feeling and a hint of bemusement. You stopped being a Christian many years ago, and even when you were, you never attended something like this. Not even close. The confraternity are wearing shawls with the hoods down, and a lady is carrying a rather large book with her. You can’t quite tell if it’s the bible.
The man who originally spoke, speaks again: “This may not mean very much to you, but we take it very seriously. It means everything to us about hospitality; looking after others”. As a group they make their way around the seats with a bowl of water. Approaching each of you, they wash and kiss one foot each, while the lady with the book reads a blessing in Spanish. As the man washes and kisses your foot, you almost fail to fathom how someone whom you were sat down with as an equal, just a few hours earlier, has now put himself in this position; one which you wouldn’t dare expect your friends and family to commit to. It makes you tremble, not physically, but deep within. You’ve never thought that this kind of humbleness exists. You think of all the people who have ever given you food and a bed, and you know that this is your home. Wherever people think of you and vice-versa, this is your home.
As they get towards the last pilgrim, the lady reading the blessings begins to cry, as do some of the other pilgrims, who proceed to comfort each other. You’re not crying though. What the hell’s wrong with you? You cried when you watched Grave of the Fireflies, you cried when you saw DeVotchka perform live, why aren’t you crying now, when you’ve just had your faith in humanity reaffirmed and permanently preserved for the rest of your life? Something that’s actually worth crying about?… Mind you, Grave of the Fireflies was a very powerful film and DeVotchka are a very intense band; you’d have to be soulless not to well up in front of either of them.
You owe it to yourself then, to keep this moment at the forefront of your mind; think about it at least once a week from now on; tell your friends about it in every detail; use it convey to people what the core of happiness is for you. Don’t tell them how much you’ve missed them or how much you value them though. That would be a bit over the top now. They don’t need to be put through that discomfort. Or shouldn’t you?
You remember that guy your parents sometimes talk about don’t you? The one who would always say to them what wonderful people they are, and they would often reply with, “You don’t need to tell us this. You say it all the time,” then he would say, “Well, you need to tell people these things while they’re still around, because some day it might be too late.”
Should you be more like him? Or carry on as usual? Giving people sleeping space when they need it, a meal when you feel like cooking one? Or just put all your feelings into text and blurt them out into a mixed crowd of friends, acquaintances and people you barely say hi to?… I think you’ve been talking to yourself long enough now.